Finding Boston’s Roadfood Gems

As we all know, Roadfooding is made even better when in the company of friends. When we found out that Buffetbuster and The Travelin Man were coming to Boston, we drew up a rather ambitious itinerary for the weekend: a schedule that mixed bonafide classics with under-the-RF-radar treasures. Realizing that Buffetbuster might like to complement his Friday-night Durgin-Park dinner with a dessert breakfast (!), we proceeded to the North End and Mike’s Pastry. After a few decadent cupcakes and a Florentine cannoli, we then drove to East Boston and Santarpio’s. The pepperoni & garlic pizza and chargrilled lamb & sausage were amazing as usual, augmented only by our jovial waiter cutting up with us the entire time. Before heading back to Cambridge, we stopped at Royal Roast Beef for a tender Super Beef cut in quarters.

Bethgrd and Karilyn met us at R.F. O’Sullivan & Son in Somerville for gourmet burgers, and they brought a mixed berry pie from Petsi Pies across the street. After chowing down on burgers and potato wedges, we walked over to Petsi to sample more of their cream pies and pastries. The crowning moment of the day came at our next stop, Kickass Cupcakes, where The Travelin Man called their Root Beer Float cupcake “the best that I have ever eaten—no lie!” Needing some dairy relief, we then drove into Cambridge to Toscanini’s and enjoyed wild flavors of ice cream such as Fluffernutter and Vienna Finger Cookie. Our final stop of the day was in Harvard Square at Mr. Bartley’s Burger Cottage, one of the state’s featured stops in George Motz’s Hamburger America. Three burgers and fresh lime rickeys later, we strolled around Harvard Yard and Square before calling it a night.

Sunday morning found us forking into fluffy omelets at Kendall Square’s Friendly Toast in Cambridge, marveling at their zany interior of vintage signs, very bad paintings, and pop-culture paraphernalia. Parking in Brookline, we left the car for a foursome of neighborhood stops. Clear Flour Bakery already had a line out the door, but there were plenty of buttery croissants and German pretzels, freshly baked and subsequently inhaled by all of us. Buffetbuster was a little skeptical about our Mexican food choice, Dorado, but one bite of his homemade chorizo cemita (a sandwich layered with meat, Oaxaca string cheese, avocado, and black beans) quickly changed his tune, and their fish taco, roasted corn, and watermelon agua fresca garnered highest praise.

We then met up with TTM’s friend John over slices of pepperoni pizza at Upper Crust, after which we crossed the street to J.P. Licks for peanut butter-marshmallow sundaes, Coffee Oreo and Noodle Kugel ice creams, and the curious but delicious Manischewitz sorbet. After sampling fresh oysters, the original Boston cream pie, and the famous Parker House rolls at the Omni-Parker House downtown, we drove to Belmont for our final stop, Rancatore’s, and more ice cream and incredible hot fudge. Many thanks from the bottom of our stomachs to Buffetbuster, The Travelin Man, Bethgrd, Karilyn, and John for trusting us to call the shots—let’s all do this again soon! (Some photos courtesy of Buffetbuster and Karilyn)

Route 66: Epilogue

After finally unpacking and scrolling through 1,000+ photos, here’s our Best of the Best on Route 66. Becoming “through-drivers” on the Mother Road was a mightier task than we thought. Most folks that we met were driving only sections of it, while others saw the Route as a colorful daytime detour from the interstates. We were surprised at the magnitude of Europeans (mostly German, French, and Italian) traveling on Route 66; a couple from Venice, Italy told us that they were so enamored with American ’50s-’60s culture that they vacation every year on U.S. backroads. Arizona and New Mexico’s stretches of Route 66 were the most traveled of the other states, due to the Route’s close proximity to I-40, the Grand Canyon, and some of the Mother Road’s most photographed sites. Conversely, there were long stretches in Kansas and Missouri where we didn’t pass any cars at all.

We assumed that one could simply follow the Route 66 signs from one end to the other. Wrong! Illinois and California featured more than ample signage to keep us on the correct path; however, route signs were few and far between in Oklahoma and Texas. Sometimes Route 66 was merely a frontage road that paralleled the interstate; in other instances, the interstate was built over it, so we were forced to take the superslab on certain stretches. In some states, we even had options: the pre-1937 route or later? We were indebted to Jerry McClanahan’s EZ66 Guide for Travelers, a spiral-bound book of maps with turn-by-turn directions, for without it, we would’ve lost our way many more times than we actually did. McClanahan, who has traveled the Route hundreds of times, makes updates and posts tips from travelers on his helpful website.

Route 66 chronicles what has become an abandoned America: gas stations, tourist sites, and small towns that were left behind in the building of the U.S. Interstate System—the underlying theme of the 2006 movie Cars (for which Route 66 was the original title). There are plentiful ghost towns, decrepit garages, rusting signs, and derelict houses that dot the present-day landscape of the Mother Road, though the perseverance of many residents has helped Route 66 preserve its rustic appearance while underscoring a bygone era of westward expansion and travel. All in all, Route 66 offers a myriad of businesses new and old, vintage neon signs, and classic buildings that capture our imagination and inspire us to explore this great country!

Total miles traveled, including all detours: 5,250

States visited: 10 (8 on Route 66 itself, plus Minnesota and Iowa before starting the Route)

Roadfood-reviewed spots visited on Route 66: 18

Non-RF-reviewed spots visited on Route 66: 44

Places that should be RF-reviewed: 32

Best gourmet burger: Green chile cheeseburger, Bobcat Bite, Santa Fe, NM

Best diner burger: Onion burger, Robert’s Grill, El Reno, OK

Best hot dog: Cozy Dog, Cozy Dog Drive-In, Springfield, IL

Best sandwich: Pig Sandwich, Van’s Pig Stand, Oklahoma City, OK

Best bar food: Provel & pepperoni pizza, Riley’s Pub, St. Louis, MO

Best pizza: Green chile & roasted chicken with blue corn crust, Golden Crown Panaderia, Albuquerque, NM

Best ethnic food: Carne adovada, Perea’s, Corrales, NM

Best barbecue: St. Louis ribs, Pappy’s Smokehouse, St. Louis, MO

Best snack food: Piñon nuts, roadside stand, Albuquerque, NM

Best doughnut: Fresh peach donut, The Donut Man, Glendora, CA

Best pie: French Silk, Country Dove Tea Room, Elk City, OK

Best ice cream: Yogurt & olive oil gelato, Bulgarini Gelato, Pasadena, CA

Best milkshake: Javanilla, Diablo Burger, Flagstaff, AZ

Best breakfast: Apple & cheese omelette, Lou Mitchell’s, Chicago, IL

Best splurge meal: Dr Pepper braised hog jowls & blue cheese grits, Tinderbox Kitchen, Flagstaff, AZ

Best “new to us” meal: Slinger, Courtesy Diner, St. Louis, MO

Finally, we’d like to thank all the fine folks who fed us, put us up for the night, and gave us personal tips for the finest food, especially: Jane & Michael Stern, Bruce Bilmes & Sue Boyle, Lynne Rosetto Kasper, ChiTownDiner & Patty, Charlene & Mark Johnson, Jenna, Buffetbuster, Carolina Bob, Battra & Ali, Dr of BBQ; the Briesch, O’Connor, Boes, Porter, and Tinder families; Marissa, Heather & Zach, Autumn & Hayden, Dorothy & Stan, Angela & Jeremy, Christie & Glenn, Erin & Noah, U.S. National Park rangers, free wifi, and all the fine servers, owners, and customers of Roadfood spots and vintage motels on Route 66!

Route 66: From Pasadena to the End of the Trail

Waking up in a wigwam at the Wigwam Motel just east of Rialto was a highlight of our trip. These iconic teepees are beautiful inside, and their concrete walls ensure a good night’s sleep from street noise. Today’s version of our “Route 66” theme was sung by Italian crooner Fabio Cobelli. Down Route 66 in Glendora, we broke our fast with a fresh peach donut from The Donut Man. A crusty yet soft donut was stuffed with almost an entire peeled peach! In Azusa, we found the site of the former Foothill Drive-In Theater, its land now used by Azusa Pacific University. Smartly, APU spruced up the old neon sign and now uses it as a marquee for school events. Passing through Duarte with its beautifully pruned trees lining the road, we reached Pasadena to meet our new friends Heather & Zach (thank you, Facebook!) for an eating extravaganza. First, we enjoyed an appetizer of fabulous Circus Animal frozen yogurt at 21 Choices. Like Cold Stone and Marble Slab, they add mix-ins—so we opted for fresh strawberries and Nilla wafers.

Next, we headed for Tonny’s Restaurant for a lunch of fresh guacamole, chilaquiles, birria (braised goat), and tall glasses of horchata, all scrumptious. Then we stopped at Gladstone Donuts to share a buttermilk donut and apple fritter. SoCal has an amazing donut scene, and Gladstone ranks up there with the best. Finally, we relished every spoonful at Bulgarini Gelato in Altadena. Their pistachio gelato is made from imported Sicilian pistachios, and their yogurt & olive oil flavor was ultra-creamy, sweet, and so uniquely Italian that Bulgarini won a permanent spot on our must-visit list on subsequent trips to SoCal. Not only did Heather & Zach take us to some fabulous eateries, but they were also extremely learned tour guides along the way, pointing out for us significant buildings, history, and random facts that make Los Angeles such a wonderful and fun city.

Bidding farewell to Heather & Zach, we then polished off a fantastic day of Roadfooding with Dodger Dogs at Dodger Stadium, where the Los Angeles Dodgers defeated the Washington Nationals 3-2 in extra innings! Our final Route 66 lodging was at the beautiful Saga Motor Hotel in Pasadena, and the next morning we took some time to explore the period architecture of Pasadena City College and Colorado Boulevard before driving the last few miles of the Mother Road through Hollywood and Beverly Hills. The last version of our “Route 66” anthem was sung by Disney girl group the Cheetah Girls. For lunch, we relied on Heather & Zach’s recommendation of Bay Cities Italian Deli in Santa Monica. Our incredible Godmother sandwich was stacked with Genoa salami, mortadella, capicola, ham, prosciutto, provolone, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles, and hot peppers, served on quality bread that sets the standard for all delis. At the intersection of Santa Monica and Ocean Boulevards, we found the Will Rogers Highway marker, as well as the iconic neon entrance arch of the Santa Monica Pier and the many shops and signs announcing the end of Route 66. Big hugs to Heather & Zach for their wonderful generosity, and endless thanks to all of you Roadfooders for riding along on our journey down America’s Main Street!

Route 66: San Bernardino…

With its classic neon and round beds (!), Barstow’s Route 66 Motel was a great place to spend the night. Before heading west into the heart of the Inland Empire, we took a detour into the Mohave Desert to the Slash X Ranch Cafe for an early lunch. We split an all-the-way burger, neatly housed in a paper wrapper (most SoCal burgers are wrapped this way) on top of a mound of fresh-cut fries. The owner gave us a tour of the place, including their expansive backyard dining area and beer-bottle chandelier! Back on the Mother Road, the Brian Setzer Orchestra regaled us with their cover of “(Get Your Kicks on) Route 66.” West of Helendale, we reveled in Elmer Long’s Bottle Tree Ranch, a forest of metal trees with glass bottles for leaves “growing” in his front yard. Thousands of bottles of all colors decorate welded skeletons, and old vehicles and machinery also share the space.

Passing through Victorville and the Cajon Pass between the San Gabriel and San Bernardino Mountains, we arrived in San Bernardino and the heart of the Inland Empire. San Bernardino County is the largest in the lower 48, so big that the four smallest states could fit within its borders. Hence, we knew that we were finished with the wide open stretches of Route 66 but remained excited to see the urban sprawl of the Mother Road’s most populated sections. In San Bernardino, we stopped at the McDonald’s Museum (also the business offices of Juan Pollo Restaurants) and were amazed at the multitudinous collection of Happy Meal toys and older paraphernalia (remember the Apple Pie Tree?). Did you know that the McDonald brothers ran a pit-cooked barbeque restaurant before they opened the world’s first McDonald’s in 1948?

Route 66 becomes Foothill Boulevard from San Bernardino to La Verne, and we had to stop at Bono’s Restaurant in Fontana. Though it was closed, we got to see their Giant Orange Stand, one of many that used to line California roads. Down the majestic tree-canopied streets of Upland, we pulled into Pop’s Cafe & Creamery for a scoop of Dr. Bob’s famous ice cream: the ultra-rich Strawberries with Sour Cream and Brown Sugar was truly a revelation! Chiles rellenos, Irene’s Special (carne asada, cheese enchilada, beans, guac and salad), and albondigas soup rounded out our dinner at the Roadfood-reviewed Mitla Cafe in San Bernardino. We then checked in to the famous Wigwam Motel before enjoying a cool night at the Rubidoux Drive-In Theater in Riverside for a double feature of The Other Guys and Inception. You know you’re in California when they sell tacos, burritos, and churros at the concession stand! Next: Pasadena, Santa Monica, and the end of the line…

Route 66: Kingman, Barstow…California or Bust!

After Phoenix, we returned to the Mother Road, with our initial stop at Flagstaff's Late for the Train for coffee and spicy hot chocolate as the Replacements crooned their version of “Route 66” to us. Bellemont is a sleepy town where the Pine Breeze Inn is located, filmed in the 1969 film Easy Rider. Williams, the Gateway to the Grand Canyon, is a great walking town, and the Roadfood-reviewed Old Smoky’s Restaurant provided us with a bacon and green chile omelet and biscuits & gravy. Short on stomach space, we opted to grab a tall slice of chocolate-raspberry cream pie to go from the Pine Country Restaurant down the street. Our next stops were among the most picturesque of our entire trip. A chocolate malt at the renowned Snow Cap Drive-In in Seligman beckoned to us, and we fell for the staff’s jokes (false door knob, fake mustard squirting), laughing all the way.

We found lots of Burma-Shave signs along this stretch, those 1930s-era sequential signs of rhyming poems on the side of the road. We stopped in Hackberry at the Hackberry General Store for a cold bottle of Route Beer 66 and a gander at the famous men’s washroom, festooned with pin-up girls from bygone eras. After Kingman and Cool Springs (site of the 1992 sci-fi movie Universal Soldier), we began to climb the Black Mountains to Sitgreaves Pass and the town of Oatman. Having spotted a bighorn sheep atop a cliff, we found that wild burros were the main event in Oatman, and vendors sell carrots for visitors to feed them. Crossing the Colorado River into California, Needles welcomed us to the Golden State with their old-timey freight wagon. Between Essex and Amboy, hundreds of folks have left their names and other messages spelled out in rocks, broken bottles, etc. on the dirt berm of 66, not to forget the constant graffiti on ruins in Danby and Cadiz Summit.

East of Amboy, the Road Runner’s Retreat sign still stands, and we encountered another shoe tree on the side of the road. This time, however, there was also a sock tree next to it! The iconic Roy’s Motel and Cafe, the site of multiple movies and commercials, is getting spruced up by the founder of Juan Pollo Restaurants. In the 117-degree heat, we were not surprised to find Amboy Crater empty. This national landmark, an extinct cinder-cone volcano, was also part of the cover art for Rush’s 2008 album Snakes & Arrows Live. Ludlow still sports ruins of a garage and cafe, and the Bagdad Cafe (from the eponymous 1987 German film) still draws visitors from around the world. Stopping in Barstow for the night, we opted for dinner at In-N-Out, traditionally our first meal upon reaching California. Next up: San Bernardino, Pasadena, and tales from the Inland Empire!

Route 66…er…I-15: Detour to Phoenix

Route 66 runs through the top of the Grand Canyon State, and although we wouldn’t trade our meals in Flagstaff for anything, we knew it wouldn’t feel like a trip to Arizona without a stop in the capitol city. Whereas Flagstaff’s alpine climate made us forget that we were amid the “dog days of summer,” the heat in Phoenix was fully turned up to 11. We vowed not to let the 115 degree heat distract us from our mission and—water bottles in hand—we set out to conquer as much ground as we could in a 24-hour period. “Exactly how do you try and conquer a city of 1.5 million people?,” you may ask. Well, with the help of a knowledgeable guide, of course. In this case our mission was led by our friend and sister-to-the-stars (a/k/a Bruce Bilmes & Sue Boyle) Jenna, who immediately whisked us away to Flor de Michoacan for paletas, Mexican popsicles made primarily of fruit chunks. Jamaica (hibiscus), cantaloupe, mango con chile (very spicy!), and the odd but irresistible guava (with seeds!) rounded out our frozen selections. Then we headed for Phoenix’s Tee Pee for old-school Mexican food: their famous Mary-Lou (huge quesadilla with green chiles) and a smothered cheese enchilada. Our final stop was the Native American-owned Fry Bread House for a vegetarian fry bread (super puffy fry bread with beans, lettuce, cheese, and sour cream) and powdered sugar fry bread (like fried dough). Whew!

The next morning, Jenna made sure we were satiated before leaving town, so our first stop was Riva’s Mexican Food for a half-pound California burrito and carne asada fries with cheese, guac, crema, and hot sauce. Then we enjoyed extra-large French macarons (salted caramel and chocolate mint among the faves) at Essence Bakery Cafe. Lastly, Jenna wouldn’t let us leave until we took a tour inside Ranch Market, a Jungle Jim’s-sized Mexican grocery that doesn’t allow photos inside the store. Their lunch counter, however, is camera-friendly, and we feasted on tacos al pastor, more beef, and a huge gordita. We bid a bittersweet farewell to Jenna and promised to return soon—and many, many thanks to her! Next: back to the Mother Road in Arizona!

Route 66: Flagstaff, Arizona…don’t forget Winona

Today’s version of “Route 66” was provided by country/swing band Asleep at the Wheel! After spending the night in the small town of Winslow, Arizona (and stopping for the requisite photo-op on the infamous “corner”), we slowly made our way toward one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Along the way we stopped at the small ghost attractions of Two Guns and Twin Arrows, hiked across the volcanic landscape of Sunset Crater National Monument, and explored the ruins at Wupatki National Monument before reaching the Grand Canyon. As is the case with many national parks, the in-park food options were less than exciting so we chose to munch on PB&J sandwiches while hiking around the rim. We spent the night camping under the stars in the unexpectedly-noisy Mather Campground and then packed up our gear and headed to the airport for an adrenaline-fueled, yet awe-inspiring, helicopter ride over the Canyon.

On our way south from the Grand Canyon we received a timely text message from Buffetbuster, noting that the latest blog by George Motz (of Hamburger America) extolled the virtues of a small Flagstaff eatery named Diablo Burger. Having no pre-established plans for lunch, we made a beeline for the downtown, where we shared a Blutarsky Burger (blackened burger with sharp cheddar, homemade guacamole, and bacon) and a fantastic java-nilla shake. The flavor of the locally-raised, grass-fed beef was topnotch and was given center stage, given the unassuming size of the “branded” English muffin. Paired with a heaping serving of herbs de Provence-seasoned Belgian fries, this meal was nothing short of amazing. In fact, we would dare guess that it was the best meal in town…except that we discovered that the next night during the dinner hour.

Roadfood purists are sure to cry treason, as the Tinderbox Kitchen is more chichi than homey, but there is no denying that their “American comfort food-redefined” is both delicious and different. Our appetizer of BBQ Pork Belly Confit was every bit as rich and creamy as the blue cheese grits that accompanied it, and the Campari tomato salad was elevated to the next galaxy by the addition of homemade bacon toffee chunks atop the greens. For the main course, we simply couldn’t resist ordering the Spicy Dr Pepper Braised Hog Jowls with Horseradish Aioli and were delightfully surprised by the flavor and tenderness of the meat. Topped off by an order of homemade donut holes with Tres Leches dipping sauce, this was a meal for the record books! Next: detour to Phoenix!

Route 66: Oh, Albuquerque

Though we didn’t “find some fried eggs and country ham” like Neil Young sang in 1975’s “Albuquerque,” we did seek out more green chile dishes at Perea’s in Corrales, a family-owned cafe recommended by Amy’s relatives. Perea’s green chile cheeseburger was thinner than Bobcat Bite and Buckhorn Tavern but still duly satisfying. The green chile quesadilla came with small dishes of red chile sauce and more green chiles for garnish, and the carne adovada was amazing. Fresh tortillas and sopaipillas rounded out this excellent meal out on Perea’s enclosed patio. Dinner was spotlighted by Aunt Ellen’s chicken enchiladas and delicious calabasitas (a zucchini and corn dish), and dessert was the New Mexican apple pie that we brought from Daily Pie Cafe in Pietown.

After a late morning jumpstart from Satellite Coffee, we headed to Duran’s Station for lunch. The sister restaurant of the famous Duran Pharmacy, the Station is housed in a converted fire station and is roomy and casual for large groups. Our friends Bucky and Aimee brought the whole gang—Jack, Maggie, Georgia, and Ladson—and a grand time was had by all. Blue corn stacked enchiladas and tender chiles rellenos smothered in green chiles were wonderful, and the kids were very excited when our server surprised them with popsicles for dessert! After buying crunchy pinon nuts from a farmer parked on Route 66 (Central Avenue), we drove to Golden Crown Panaderia for their amazing green chile & roasted chicken pizza on blue corn crust. While the pizza was baking, we chatted with the owner, who told us about his renowned bread portraits. Everyone loved the pizza for dinner, and it was just as good cold the next morning!

Packing up and saying goodbye, we sang along with Bing Crosby & the Andrews Sisters in their version of “(Get Your Kicks on) Route 66” and headed for Garcia’s Cafe. One gigantic green chile, chorizo, potato & egg burrito later, we were cruising by old hotel signs, dilapidated buildings and crumbling towns throughout western New Mexico. Owl Rock in Mesita, Budville, and El Malpais National Monument were highlights until we reached Gallup and the El Rancho Hotel. The Arizona state line quickly arrived, and we spent a few hours exploring the Petrified Forest and Painted Desert National Parks. Holbrook sported the iconic Wigwam Hotel, but Joe & Aggie’s was already closed for the day. Our dinner consisted of turkey & provolone sandwiches on Golden Crown’s inimitable green chile cheese bread. Muchas gracias to all of Amy’s relatives and to Bucky and his beautiful family for eating and hanging out with us! Next chapter: Winslow and beyond…

Route 66: Is This Heaven? No, It’s New Mexico!

Tucumcari, New Mexico was once a famous overnight stop on Route 66, with multitudinous billboards advertising hundreds of motel rooms for travelers. Although it’s now a vestige of its former self, the town still boasts some of the finest neon signs on the Mother Road. The owners of the Blue Swallow Motel have restored its sign and rooms-cum-garages to their former glory, and enthusiasts often visit at sunset for the perfect photo opportunity. Before dinner, we stopped by the Tucumcari Mountain Cheese Factory; there’s no storefront here, for the focus is producing high-quality cheese for New York, Chicago, Los Angeles, and other major cities. The workers let us enter the corner of the factory, however, to buy a block of green chile cheddar, which we snacked on all night. The next morning, we stopped at Cornerstone Donuts on the way out of town for a bag of fresh glazed donuts, crullers, and apple fritters.

After driving through Las Vegas on a pre-1937 stretch of Route 66, we reached our primary destination, Bobcat Bite, outside of Santa Fe. One of the top eateries for many Roadfooders, the green chile cheeseburger is simply the best we’ve ever had, and the summer-only skillet beans were amazingly spicy and savory. Pouring rain prevented us from exploring downtown Santa Fe as we wanted; sadly, we watched Roque’s Carnitas packing up and leaving just as we found a parking space. Most of our lunch options—including many of the featured stops on this fall’s Roadfood bus tour, like Santacafe and The Shed—were already closed by 2:30, so we headed over to Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen, a favorite of resident RFer Bearcuisinenm. We shared a plate of carne adovada, tortillas, and sopaipillas, but the real winner was a small bowl of chile con carne that our server brought us to taste. We then drove south to Socorro in order to put us in a more convenient position for the next day’s activities.

The next morning, Manzanares Street Coffeehouse in Socorro was our first stop for iced coffee before leaving town, and thanks to Amy’s eagle eyes spotting a homemade sign, we stocked up on raspberry and cherry ciders from Carrizozo Orchard. Heading west on Route 60, our morning journey to Pietown was greeted by the cheerful staff at Daily Pie Cafe. Their lemon meringue pie was wonderful, but our reason for this detour was their famous New Mexican apple pie with green chiles and pinon nuts, augmented by a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream. It is the best apple pie we’ve eaten—so good that we bought a whole pie to go! After a supercool visit to the Very Large Array of radio telescopes, we headed for San Antonio for lunch at Buckhorn Tavern. Their excellent green chile cheeseburger (with a side of green chile cheese fries) certainly sated us until we reached Corrales, the home of Amy’s relatives. Next up: Albuquerque explorations…

Route 66: You’ll see Amarillo…

Having spent the night at the Lake El Reno campground, we found ourselves a mere 5 minutes away from downtown as the sun was rising. Not wanting to miss out on the onion burgers of this region, we stopped in at Robert’s Grill for breakfast. Although all of the locals at the counter were chowing down on eggs, hash browns, and assorted breakfast meats, we of course opted for a pair of their famous burgers, which we have to admit are our favorites yet. Clinton, Oklahoma has the best Route 66 Museum yet, replete with informative exhibits and just about every piece of commemorative memorabilia available for purchase.

Roadfood favorite Jigg’s Smokehouse was unfortunately closed, but we found the Country Dove Tea Room in Elk City open for lunch. The creamy vegetable soup and chicken salad were fabulous, but the French Silk pie with its pecan-cookie crust was divine! The owner assured us that we could duplicate her pie at home, but we told her that we’d rather return to Elk City to enjoy it again. Cruising though Sayre, we caught sight of a pedestrian tunnel underneath the now-less-than-busy Route 66 that Amy walked through as Chris took pictures. There are a few tunnels under the road in Oklahoma, and we were happy to find this one unlocked and open for use!

The Texas state line came up fast, and our first stop was the Devil’s Rope Museum in McLean. This is the world’s largest tribute to barbed wire, and we were astonished at the thousands of different kinds on display, as well as all the implements used to create, install, and maintain these fences across the fields of the world. Driving toward Amarillo, we passed by the giant cross in Groom and the Bug Ranch in Conway, where several VW Beetle chassis are partially buried and spray-painted by visitors. Of course, we had to eat dinner at the Big Texan to see if anyone would take the 72 oz. Steak challenge (free if eaten in one hour); no one did while we were there, but a table with countdown timers was set up on a stage for everyone to watch. The huge slab of prime rib and skillet of Frito pie were quite satisfying, and they even had those creepy dual-image portraits like the ones in the bathrooms at Hell’s Kitchen in Minneapolis.

About 30 minutes south of the city, Palo Duro Canyon is one of our favorite camping spots, and the temperature dipped into the 60s while we slept in our tent! After a 6-mile hike to the Lighthouse rock formation and back, we drove back to Amarillo to find Arnold Burger and lunched on Texas-shaped cheeseburgers. The burgers were charred to perfection, and the jalapeño dressing and toasted buns can’t be beat. The staff told us that they get at least one order per day for the family-sized, 24-inch burger and custom bun! After leaving our special mark on Cadillac Ranch (see below), we finally reached the halfway mark on Route 66 in Adrian and celebrated with a slice of Ugly Crust pecan pie at the Midpoint Cafe. New Mexico loomed in the distance, and we ate an early dinner of delicious chicken crispitos (like flautas) at Del’s Restaurant in Tucumcari. More New Mexican treasures to be revealed soon…