Here's some of the best tortilla soup I've had -- at Tacubaya, which is a stylish Mexican restaurant in a little shopping enclave on 4th Street in Berkeley, California. When I say stylish, I don't mean fancy. You stand at the register and place your order looking at an overhead menu; and prices are moderate, a couple of notches up from taco-truck cuisine. And while Tacubaya may be a tad too polite for street-food devotees, I dare anyone to find tortilla soup this good, spiked with chile and crowded with chicken shreds, fried tortilla strips, slivers of avocado, and melty cheese. I also was wowed by this mole negro pork tamale: